What should I check first when viewing a used car?

Check the paperwork before the car: match the VIN on the V5C to the car, make sure the seller's name and address match the V5C, and ask for invoices for any work the advert claims. If the paperwork does not add up, the condition of the car does not matter.

How long should a test drive be?

At least 20 minutes, starting from cold, on a mix of town and faster roads. That is long enough for the engine to reach temperature, for warning lights to appear and for most gearbox and suspension noises to show.

What should I ask the seller?

Ask how long they have owned it, why they are selling, how many keys there are, when the cambelt or timing chain and the clutch were last done, whether there is any finance on it, and whether it has ever been in an accident or written off. Ask for proof for anything they claim.

Should I get a mechanic to inspect the car?

For an expensive car, or one you are unsure about, yes. An independent inspection costs far less than most of the faults it can find, and it covers things an MOT and a history check do not, such as the engine's internal condition and the gearbox.

Used car viewing checklist: what to check before you buy

Before you go

Read the MOT history. It tells you what to look at: repeated advisories, corrosion notes and the parts that keep failing. See how to read an MOT history.
Check the mileage readings. They should rise every year and match the advert. See how to spot clocked mileage.
Look up the model's common faults. Our MOT statistics by model list the most common failures and advisories for each model, so you know where the weak points are.
Ask for the registration and the VIN if the advert does not show them. A seller who will not give the reg before a viewing is a reason for caution.
Arrange to see the car at the seller's home, the address on the V5C, in daylight and with the engine cold. Ask them not to start it before you arrive.
Bring someone with you, a torch, a tyre tread gauge or a 20p coin, and kitchen roll for the dipstick.

The paperwork

Match the VIN on the V5C to the car. The vehicle identification number (VIN) is on a plate, usually in the door pillar or under the bonnet, often visible through the bottom of the windscreen, and stamped into the body. All of them should match the V5C exactly.
Check the V5C is genuine and current. It should have a watermark, and the serial number should not fall in a range of stolen blank V5Cs. The gov.uk vehicle enquiry service lets you compare the V5C issue date with the DVLA's record.
Check the seller is the keeper. The name and address on the V5C should match the seller and the place you are viewing. If they do not, ask why.
Ask for invoices for every item of work the advert lists. "New clutch" or "cambelt done" means nothing without a receipt showing the car's registration, the date and the mileage.
Check the service record. Stamps or invoices should run in step with the dates and the MOT mileages.

Outside the car

Panel gaps and paint. Uneven gaps, paint overspray on rubber seals, and panels that are a slightly different shade suggest accident repair. Look along the sides in good light.
Rust. Check the sills, wheel arches, door bottoms and around the boot. Look underneath with the torch at the subframes and suspension mounts, especially if the MOT history mentions corrosion.
Tyres. At least 1.6mm of tread is the legal minimum; budget for new tyres below 3mm. Uneven wear across a tyre points to alignment or suspension problems. Mismatched budget tyres on a premium car suggest corners cut.
Glass and lights. Chips in the driver's view, cracked lenses and condensation inside the lamps.

Under the bonnet (engine cold)

Oil. Pull the dipstick: the level should be between the marks. A creamy, mayonnaise-like residue under the oil filler cap can mean a head gasket problem.
Coolant. The right level and colour, with no oil film on top.
Leaks. Look for fresh oil or coolant on the engine and the ground under it.
Cold start. Watch and listen as it starts. Blue smoke means burning oil; persistent white smoke can mean coolant getting into the engine; heavy black smoke on a diesel needs explaining. Rattles that fade after a few seconds can be a timing chain.

Inside

Warning lights. They should all light up when the ignition comes on, then go out once the engine runs. A light that never comes on may have had its bulb removed.
Wear against the mileage. Steering wheel, gear knob, pedals and the driver's seat bolster.
Everything electric. Windows, mirrors, central locking, air conditioning (it should blow cold), heated seats and screen, infotainment.
Damp. A musty smell or wet carpets, including under the boot floor.
Keys. Ask how many keys come with the car. A missing second key is expensive to replace and worth a price reduction.

The test drive

Make sure you are insured to drive it first. Drive from cold, for at least 20 minutes, on a mix of roads.

Gearbox. Smooth changes in every gear, no crunching, and no slipping or juddering on an automatic.
Clutch. A biting point very high up the pedal suggests a worn clutch.
Brakes. The car should stop straight, without pulling, juddering or grinding.
Steering and suspension. No knocks over bumps, no wandering, and the wheel should be straight when driving straight.
Engine. Pulls smoothly, no warning lights, temperature steady.

Before you pay

Finance, stolen and write-off status. These sit on private registers. Use a paid history check from a provider that holds them, and ask the seller for a finance settlement letter if they mention finance. See Cat S, Cat N and write-offs explained.
Never pay in full before you have seen the car, and do not pay a deposit to hold a car you have not seen.
Get a receipt showing the car, the price, the date, both names and addresses, and the words "sold as seen" only if you accept them.
Take the V5C new keeper slip (V5C/2) and make sure the seller tells the DVLA about the sale. Tax the car before you drive it away; tax does not transfer with the car.

How RegTail helps

The free check shows the car's current MOT status and condition. The full report (1 credit) builds this checklist for the specific car: each MOT problem grouped by part and corner, every claim in the advert tested against the records, and viewing priorities written for that model and engine, each tied to an MOT test or a finding. RegTail does not check finance, stolen or write-off registers and says so in every report.

What to check when viewing a used car